This wine is like a 1980s Russian shotputter; Not because of its dubious origins, enormous legs or chemical content, but because it's won loads of international medals.
A lovely, smooth Tenerife red made from negramoll, the last appreciated of all Canarian grape varieties.
The spirit of Tauro beach lives on even as Anfi's bulldozers wait for its new coating of Saharan sand, but chances are it will never be quite the same again.
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