The market is just like the town; largely functional and agricultural but with the odd surprise. Stalls sell local and imported produce at excellent prices, but the best value is always whatever is in season on the island.

Lex says: You can't haggle here or in any local Gran Canaria markets but if you smile and say hello you might get a bit extra.

Look out for fresh cheese (queso tierno), which is superb drizzled with the local honey (sold in plain jars), local dried herbs, local olives, and for exotic fruit. We've found tree tomatoes, sapotes and passion fruit amongst the seasonal fruit. The wine stall by the door is good and there's plenty of bread and cheese on sale at the back.

Don't miss the clothes, hardware and souvenirs in the building opposite the produce market. It's for the local crowd and feels more like South America than Europe.

Parking in San Mateo after about 11am is a nightmare and the road up clogs up after midday. Get there early and park right by the market, shop in peace and be in a cafe, or watching the locals dance in the square next door before the hordes arrive.

Head for the church and the cobbled streets around it for the best lunch options in town.